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Unicorn Spit

What It Is, When to Use It, and Why It Needs a Topcoat

Unicorn SPiT: a water-based pigment gel that works as stain, glaze, or paint by dilution. What it is, when to use it, and how to seal it for durability.

For: Furniture makers and upcyclers deciding whether Unicorn SPiT is right for their project — and how to use it if it is

27 min read6 sources6 reviewedUpdated Apr 12, 2026

Unicorn Spit at a Glance

Unicorn SPiT is a water-based pigment-gel concentrate made by Eclectic Products. It works as a stain, glaze, or paint depending on how much you dilute it with water. It's a legitimate finishing product for furniture upcycling and decorative work — but it's not a replacement for traditional wood stain, and it provides zero protection without a topcoat.

ManufacturerEclectic Products
Product typeWater-based pigment-gel concentrate
Sizes4 oz ($12–15) · 8 oz ($18–22)
SurfacesWood, glass, metal, fabric, concrete, pottery
Self-protective without topcoat?No
Recommended sealerOil-based poly, epoxy/resin, finishing wax
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SAME JAR — THREE RESULTS (WATER DILUTION CONTROLS OPACITY) PAINT MODE 0–10% water OPAQUE COLOR grain hidden Hides wood grain completely Best: color transformation NO GRAIN VISIBLE GLAZE MODE 10–30% water SEMI-TRANSPARENT grain partially visible Tints over existing finish Best: re-toning sealed wood PARTIAL GRAIN SHOW STAIN MODE 30–50% water GRAIN VISIBLE wood character preserved Stain-like appearance Best: upcycling bare wood FULL GRAIN VISIBLE All three modes require a topcoat — Unicorn SPiT provides zero surface protection on its own
The same jar of Unicorn SPiT becomes paint, glaze, or stain based on water dilution ratio. More water means more transparency and more wood grain visible through the color. All three modes still need a topcoat to be durable.

In this guide:

Part 1: What Unicorn Spit Actually Is

The name is ridiculous. The product is real.

Unicorn SPiT (stylized with a capital P-i-T by Eclectic Products) is a water-based pigment-gel concentrate. The manufacturer calls it "a paint, gel stain and glaze concentrate — all in one bottle." That's accurate but vague. The dilution table below is where the product actually makes sense.

Composition

The product is water-based, pigment-driven, and gel-consistency — thicker than most water-based stains, much thinner than acrylic paint. It's non-toxic, zero VOC, and jasmine-scented. It's not a true wood dye (which penetrates wood fibers at a molecular level), and it's not a paint (it doesn't form a protective film on its own).

The manufacturer claims it contains "no harmful plastics like acrylic or latex." That reads like marketing rather than chemistry. The product behaves like a water-based pigment dispersion regardless of how it's labeled. What matters in practice: it's water-soluble when wet, requires a non-water-based sealer for topcoating (see Part 5), and reactivates with water while unsealed.

The Dilution Table Is the Product

The dilution ratio is what makes it versatile. Add water, get a different product. Eclectic Products' official instructions publish the following ratios:

UseWater DilutionExpected Result
Paint / heavy glaze0–10%Opaque color, hides grain
Light glaze / whitewash10–30%Semi-transparent tint over existing finish
Wood stain30–50%Grain visible, stain-like color
Distressed / weathered wash50–70%Very light color, prominent grain
Fabric dye60–80%Color wash on fabric
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DILUTION RATIO TRANSFORMS THE PRODUCT — MORE WATER = LESS OPACITY ← LESS WATER · MORE WATER → PAINT LIGHT GLAZE STAIN LIGHT WASH FABRIC DYE OPAQUE SEMI-OPAQUE TRANSLUCENT LIGHT WASH NEAR CLEAR 0–10% water 10–30% water 30–50% water 50–70% water 60–80% water First four dilution ranges apply to wood — the fabric dye range is too thin for any wood finishing use
The dilution ratio is what makes Unicorn SPiT versatile. Each level produces a visually distinct result — from fully opaque paint coverage (hiding grain) through translucent stain (grain fully visible) to a near-clear wash. The wood grain texture shown in sections 2–4 represents real grain visibility at those dilution ranges.

The same 4 oz jar serves all five functions. A jar diluted to 40% water looks and behaves like a wood stain. The same jar at 5% water looks like opaque colored paint. That versatility is real, not marketing.

One important caveat: the Metallic and Sparkling product lines have different dilution ratios than the original. The manufacturer explicitly warns that the standard instructions don't apply to the Metallic line.

Available Colors and Products

  • Original Unicorn SPiT: 14+ vivid colors — Blue Thunder, Zia Teal, Purple Hill Majesty, Ogre Green, Rustic Reality (earthy brown), Weathered Daydream (grey), Sparkling Iced Egret (white), and others
  • Unicorn SPiT Metallic: pearlescent/metallic finish; different dilution guidelines
  • Unicorn SPiT Sparkling: glitter-infused variant

Available at Amazon, Home Depot, Walmart, and Michaels. The 4 oz size ($12–15) is enough for a small furniture piece at stain dilution.

Part 2: The Finishing Landscape

The confusion around Unicorn SPiT comes from treating it as a direct substitute for traditional stain. It isn't.

How Traditional Stain Works

Traditional pigment stains work by lodging pigment particles in the open pores of raw, unfinished wood. Traditional dye stains work by dissolving into the wood fibers themselves. Both mechanisms require one thing: bare, unfinished wood. Apply traditional stain over an existing clear finish and it wipes right off — no pores to absorb into.

Traditional stains also come in a limited palette: browns, ambers, greys, blacks, some reds. You cannot get teal, cobalt blue, vivid orange, or forest green from a traditional pigment stain without multiple steps (bleach, then dye, then topcoat).

How Unicorn SPiT Works Differently

Unicorn SPiT doesn't rely on wood pore absorption as its primary mechanism. It functions as a pigmented glaze that adheres to any porous, clean, or deglossed surface — including previously finished wood. This is why it's popular in furniture flipping: you can skip the full strip-to-bare-wood step that traditional stain demands.

The downside: the color sits more on the surface than in it. Traditional stain's pigments lodge in the pore structure and can't smear or lift. Unicorn SPiT's pigments sit closer to the surface, which matters for topcoating (see Part 5).

Where It Fits Against the Other Options

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WHERE THE COLOR SITS — THE FUNDAMENTAL DIFFERENCE TRADITIONAL STAIN Pigment lodges in open wood pores Requires bare, unfinished wood Color locked into the wood structure VS UNICORN SPiT Pigment coats the surface as a glaze Works on raw or previously finished wood Topcoat carries all the protection
Traditional stain penetrates into open pores and is locked into the wood structure — durable by nature, but it requires bare, unfinished wood. Unicorn SPiT coats the surface as a glaze (shown as the blue overlay concentrated at the top), which is why it works over existing finishes but depends entirely on the topcoat for durability.
Unicorn SPiTTraditional Pigment StainWood DyeChalk PaintGel Stain
Requires bare wood?NoYesYesNoNo
Color rangeVivid (blues, greens, purples)Natural wood tones onlyFull spectrumFull spectrumNatural wood tones
Film-formingNoNoNoYes (thin)No
Works on glass / metal / fabricYesNoNoNoNo
Grain visibilityVariablePreservedHighHiddenVariable
Best forColor transformation, upcyclingNatural wood enhancementDeep color in fine woodworkingMatte / distressed lookBlotch prevention

Unicorn SPiT is best described as a water-based pigment glaze with staining capability. To show off the wood's natural beauty, use traditional stain or dye. To transform the color for decorative effect, Unicorn SPiT is the right tool.

Part 3: Right Project, Wrong Project

Unicorn SPiT has a specific job. It does that job well. It fails at others.

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SHOULD I USE UNICORN SPiT FOR MY PROJECT? Is the surface already finished (not bare raw wood)? YES NO ✅ GOOD CHOICE Degloss, clean, apply, seal — no stripping needed Do you want vivid color? (blues, greens, teals, purples) YES NO ✅ GOOD CHOICE It has colors traditional stain simply can't produce High-use surface or exterior? (dining table, floors, outdoor) YES NO ❌ SKIP IT Use traditional stain — durability and natural tones fit better ✅ EITHER WORKS — test on scrap first
Three questions that determine whether Unicorn SPiT fits your project. It excels at color transformation on already-finished or decorative pieces. Traditional stain wins on high-use and exterior applications where durability and natural wood tones matter most.

Projects Where Unicorn SPiT Makes Sense

Furniture upcycling with an existing finish. You have a solid wood dresser or side table with an old orange oak stain. You want it grey-blue. Stripping to bare wood is a half-day job. With Unicorn SPiT, you degloss, clean, apply, and seal. The color shift is real and durable with the right topcoat.

Vivid, expressive color. Blues, teals, purples, greens — colors you can't get from traditional stain without bleaching first. If color transformation is the point, Unicorn SPiT has a palette that no other wood-specific product matches.

Multi-color blending and artistic effects. Artists use it wet-on-wet for gradient and marbled effects on furniture. Traditional stain doesn't blend this way.

Mixed-media projects. One product colors wood panels, glass inserts, fabric upholstery, and concrete bases in the same piece. For projects spanning multiple substrates, this reduces the product count from four to one.

Re-toning an existing finish. If a piece's stain is slightly warm or slightly cool compared to what you wanted, Unicorn SPiT applied at glaze dilution (10–30% water) can shift the hue without stripping.

Projects Where Unicorn SPiT Fails

Fine woodworking on new, raw wood where the grain is the feature. If you've selected figured walnut or quartersawn white oak for its character, teal competes with the medullary rays. Use a penetrating dye or traditional oil stain instead.

High-use surfaces. Dining table tops, floors, kitchen cabinetry, workbenches. The topcoat carries 100% of the durability load on these surfaces. Traditional stain with oil-based poly achieves the same visual result with simpler, more predictable chemistry. The topcoat complexity that Unicorn SPiT requires (see Part 5) adds no value here.

Exterior applications. Unicorn SPiT is not UV-stable or weatherproof. It will fade significantly faster than exterior-rated stains even with a sealer. Don't use it on deck furniture, garden planters, or outdoor signs.

When you want natural wood warmth. Unicorn SPiT's palette is vivid pigment colors. It doesn't reproduce the warmth, depth, or tonal variation of natural wood tones the way oil-based stains do. "Walnut brown" isn't in its vocabulary.

Production or saleable pieces needing batch consistency. Color variation from the application process, wood species absorption differences, and topcoat choices make Unicorn SPiT harder to replicate consistently across multiple pieces compared to measured, repeatable traditional staining processes.

Part 4: Applying Unicorn Spit to Wood

The application is simple. The mistakes come from skipping surface prep or rushing the dry time.

Surface Prep

The prep differs based on whether you're working with raw wood or a previously finished piece.

Raw bare wood:

  1. Sand through grits: 120, then 180, then 220
  2. Vacuum thoroughly; wipe with a tack cloth
  3. Wipe with denatured alcohol or 91% isopropyl alcohol; let dry completely
  4. Just before applying: lightly mist the surface with clean water — this opens pores and significantly reduces blotching on softwoods like pine

Previously finished wood:

  1. Clean the surface to remove grease, wax, or oils
  2. Degloss: sand lightly with 220 grit or use liquid sandpaper
  3. Wipe with denatured alcohol; let dry completely
  4. The surface doesn't need to be stripped to bare wood — just clean and dull

Application

Unicorn SPiT applies with a brush, foam pad, cloth, spray bottle, airbrush, or your hands. Work with the grain.

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UNICORN SPiT APPLICATION — FIVE STEPS IN ORDER 1 PREP Surface ready Sand 120→220 (bare wood) or degloss (finished) 2 APPLY Work with grain Brush, pad, or cloth Mist bare wood first 3 BLEND While still wet Featherdust edges Smooth streaks 4 DRY 30–60 min minimum Dull chalky = done Do NOT rush this step 5 SEAL Topcoat required Oil-based poly preferred See Part 5 for options
The five-step application sequence. Steps 1 (prep) and 4 (dry fully) are the most commonly skipped — blotchy or smeared results almost always trace back to one of these two. Step 5 (seal) is not optional: without a topcoat, the finish has no durability.
  1. Shake the jar well before opening — redistributes pigment (especially important for the Sparkling line)
  2. Mist the wood surface lightly with water if working on bare wood
  3. Apply the product with your chosen tool, working in the direction of the grain
  4. While the product is wet, blend harsh edges with a clean, slightly damp brush or foam pad
  5. Use the featherdusting technique to smooth streaks: take a dry brush and make very light, sweeping passes across the surface — this blends without adding product
  6. Let dry fully: 30–60 minutes in normal conditions; the product turns from glossy-wet to dull and chalky when it's done. Don't rush this — a surface that looks chalky but feels slightly cool to the touch may still be releasing moisture
  7. Optional: buff lightly with 120–220 grit sandpaper or extra-fine steel wool for a distressed look, then remove all dust
  8. Seal (see Part 5)

Color Mixing and Layering

Shake well before use. To mix colors, combine in a separate container and stir (don't shake the mixture — shaking introduces air bubbles). The ratio determines the final color.

For layered multi-color effects on the wood surface, choose your approach:

  • Wet-on-wet: apply two colors while both are still wet, blend at the edges — produces gradient, marbled effects
  • Dry layers: let first color dry fully, then apply second — produces distinct color separation; seal between complete color layers to prevent bleed-through

Anti-muddy-color rule: stick to warm colors (reds, oranges, yellows) OR cool colors (blues, greens, purples) within a single piece. A Crafty Mix's layering guide documents this: mixing warm and cool colors together produces muddy, indistinct results.

How Wood Species Affects Results

Wood species change the result significantly:

Oak, ash, elm (open grain): The large pores absorb product deeply. Grain contrast is dramatic — the pore lines pool with color and stand out. Cathedral grain becomes a design feature, not a background.

Maple, cherry, birch (closed grain): Tight pores absorb less. Color is more uniform and smoother, closer to a paint effect. Less grain drama, more even coverage.

Pine, cedar (softwoods): Pine is the tricky one. Growth rings alternate between earlywood (the lighter, softer spring growth) and latewood (the darker, denser summer growth). These bands absorb stain at very different rates, causing blotchy results on dry wood. Misting the surface before applying reduces this significantly. For difficult pine, a very light wash of shellac (1 lb cut) as a pre-conditioner — the same approach as wood conditioner before traditional stain — helps even out absorption.

Previously finished surfaces: Unicorn SPiT acts purely as a glaze. Adhesion depends entirely on your deglossing quality. Sand with 220 grit or use liquid sandpaper and wipe with denatured alcohol — without this, the product can peel or not adhere evenly.

Part 5: Topcoat Selection and Durability

No Topcoat Means No Durability

Unicorn SPiT provides zero protective finish on its own. The dull, chalky surface after drying is an unsealed pigment layer, not a finished surface.

Without topcoat, it scratches with minimal contact, fades from UV within weeks, and marks from water within seconds. Per Eclectic Products' application guide: "Like all stains, it will eventually fade if left unsealed." Every application needs a topcoat.

The Reactivation Problem

Unicorn SPiT is water-based. While it's unsealed, water reactivates it — rewets the pigment layer and causes it to move. Michelle Nicole's topcoat guide documents this specifically: apply water-based polyurethane directly over Unicorn SPiT and here's what happens:

  1. The water in the topcoat rewets the pigment layer
  2. The pigment moves, smears, or lifts
  3. In multi-color designs, colors bleed into each other
  4. The result is color distortion and adhesion failure

Oil-based polyurethane contains no water, so it cures over Unicorn SPiT without disturbing it. That's why the manufacturer recommends oil-based sealers.

If you need water-based topcoat (for low odor or easy cleanup), here's the workaround:

  1. Apply 1–2 light coats of aerosol lacquer or aerosol shellac over the fully dry Unicorn SPiT
  2. Let the barrier coat cure fully (24 hours for shellac; per label for lacquer)
  3. Then apply water-based polyurethane over the barrier coat

The barrier coat locks in the Unicorn SPiT layer so the water in the WB poly can't reach it — and the colors stay put.

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THREE PATHS TO SEALING — ONLY TWO WORK ❌ WATER-BASED POLY DIRECT 1. Apply Unicorn SPiT; dry fully 2. Apply water-based polyurethane ⚠ Water reactivates pigment layer Color bleeds, smears, or lifts RESULT: COLOR DISTORTION ✅ OIL-BASED POLY DIRECT 1. Apply Unicorn SPiT; dry fully 2. Apply oil-based polyurethane No water — no reactivation Cures cleanly over SPiT layer RESULT: CLEAN DURABLE FINISH ✅ BARRIER COAT + WB POLY 1. Apply Unicorn SPiT; dry fully 2. Apply aerosol lacquer or shellac (cure 24h for shellac) 3. Apply water-based poly over barrier RESULT: CLEAN DURABLE FINISH
The reactivation problem explained as three concrete paths. Water-based poly carries water that rewets the unsealed Unicorn SPiT layer, causing color distortion. Oil-based poly is water-free and safe. The barrier coat path (aerosol lacquer or shellac first) locks in the pigment, making water-based poly safe to apply on top.

Topcoat Options

TopcoatSheenDurabilityNotes
Oil-based polyurethaneSatin to high glossExcellentMost reliable; no reactivation risk; deepens colors
Epoxy / resin (e.g., FAMOWOOD Glaze Coat)High gloss, "3D" depthExcellentBest aesthetic; most dramatic color deepening
Finishing wax or beeswaxMatte to satinModerateEasiest; traditional feel; reapply annually
Aerosol lacquerMatte to glossGoodGood barrier coat; allows WB poly on top
Aerosol shellacMatteModerateExcellent barrier coat; seals very reliably
Marine varnishGlossExcellentHigh-humidity environments; water exposure

How Colors Change Under Topcoat

All topcoats deepen color slightly. Gloss topcoats deepen it significantly. Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts forum users have documented purple going "almost black" under high-gloss lacquer.

Test on a scrap piece with your planned topcoat before committing to the full project. Matte and satin finishes preserve more of the as-applied color. Gloss looks dramatic but can push colors further than you intend — especially purples and violets.

Part 6: Troubleshooting

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TROUBLESHOOTING — EIGHT COMMON PROBLEMS AND THEIR FIXES Streaky application Dry surface; dragging product while applying → Mist surface before applying; use featherdust technique Blotchy results on pine Alternating grain absorbs at different rates → Mist surface; pre-condition with thin shellac (1 lb cut) Muddy multi-color result Warm + cool palette mixed; layers not dried between → Stay warm or cool palette; seal between complete layers Color too dark under sealer Gloss sealer deepens pigment significantly → Test on scrap first; switch to matte or satin finish Purple / violet went near-black Violet pigments react strongly to high-gloss topcoats → Always test purples specifically; use matte sealer Light colors (yellow) look washed out Lower pigment concentration in lighter shades → Apply 2–3 thinner coats; reduce water dilution Color lifted or bled when sealing Water-based topcoat reactivated pigment layer → Use oil-based sealer or apply aerosol barrier coat first Color fading within weeks No topcoat applied; UV exposure → Always seal; once faded, the piece needs refinishing
Eight common problems, all with identifiable root causes. Most failures trace to three sources: skipping surface prep (streaks, blotching), choosing the wrong topcoat (color lift, fading), or mixing warm and cool palettes without letting layers dry (muddy results).
ProblemLikely CauseFix
Streaky applicationDry surface; dragging productMist surface before applying; use featherdusting technique
Blotchy results on pineAlternating grain absorptionMist surface; pre-condition with thin shellac wash (1 lb cut)
Muddy multi-color resultWarm + cool palette mixed; no drying between layersStay within warm or cool palette; let each layer dry; seal between complete color layers
Color too dark under sealerGloss sealer deepens pigmentTest on scrap first; switch to matte or satin finish
Purple / violet went near-blackViolet pigments react strongly to glossUse matte sealer; always test purples specifically
Light colors (yellow) look washed outLighter pigment concentration in some shadesApply 2–3 thinner coats instead of one heavy coat; reduce water dilution
Color lifted or bled when sealingWater-based topcoat reactivated pigment layerLet fully cure (24 hrs); use oil-based sealer or apply aerosol barrier coat first
Color fading within weeksNo topcoat appliedAlways seal; once faded, refinish the piece

One safety note: If you use oil-based topcoat over Unicorn SPiT with rags or cloths, dispose of those cloths carefully. Cloths soaked in oil-based products can self-combust. Soak in water immediately after use and lay flat outdoors to dry completely before disposal.

Where This Fits

Unicorn SPiT is a finishing product, not a starting point. It works best when you already know how to apply a topcoat and understand what wood prep requires.

Before this guide: If you're new to finishing, read a primer on wood finishing fundamentals before buying Unicorn SPiT. Understanding how stains, paints, and topcoats relate to each other will help you decide whether Unicorn SPiT is the right product before you commit.

Related reading:

  • Applying Polyurethane — the topcoat most Unicorn SPiT projects need; the technique matters as much as the product choice

After this guide: Once you've applied and sealed a Unicorn SPiT piece, the next skill gap is usually finishing consistency — getting the same result across multiple pieces or larger surfaces. That leads into understanding brush technique, roller application, and spray finishing.

Sources

This guide draws on Eclectic Products' official documentation, community forum discussions, and experienced makers' application guides.